姑凉一人菲律宾长滩岛自助行
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我在一片YES, MAA'M中开始了台风中的长滩岛之旅。从地图上看,它像极了一块狗骨头。它的出名,在于有一条绵长4公里的白沙滩,分为Station1、Station2、Station3三部分。我每天从Station3走到Station1,有时候也去背面的Bulabog Beach布拉伯海滩,有时候也去北边更远的Diniwid Beach;每天看着沙子慢慢变柔软,慢慢变细腻。尽管天公不作美,既来之则安之,大部分时候,都用来漫步海滩与寻找美食。地图上的红色枫叶,记载了我走过的路。<br/>
我曾在海滩边问保安人员,他们在沙子上用手指划拨出四个字母,告诉我是“MAA'M”而不是“MOM”;也曾在Willy's boracay问过前台服务生,为什么走到任何一家店里,她们会对我说“YES, MAA'M”,她们告诉我,在当地,这是对女客人的最高尊称。<br/>
总体来说,除了那些赚钱养家的小贩总是紧紧跟着你向你推荐各种海上活动,当地人民没有那么热情,也不冷淡,只是一副生意人公事公办的态度,甚至还有点刻板,说一不二。除了“YES,MAA'M”,还有“THANK YOU MAA'M和GOODBYE MAA'M”,好像这三句话,才能给事情划上一个完整的句号;除了好的餐厅和酒店仍然拥有很好的服务,别无其他。或许是全程的坏天气左右了心情。我对那个小岛没有太多热情,也没有太多反感。我所期待的,日落前五彩斑斓变幻万千的云层与帆船交织的景象,自然也没有实现。<br/>
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我在凌晨3:40抵达马尼拉尼诺·阿基诺国际<span class="bbsLmLabel" data-info="[{"producty_type":1018,"id":41507,"weight":1,"url":"http://z.qyer.com/deal/41507/","title":"u5e7fu5dde/u9999u6e2fu5f80u8fd4u675cu9a6cu76d6u57305-6u5929u81eau7531u884c","price":"<em>3999</em>u5143u8d77","picture":"http://pic.qyer.com/public/supplier/lastminute/2015/05/11/14313325128281"}]">机场</span>,暗自庆幸红眼航空没有延误,结果就生生在<span class="bbsLmLabel" data-info="[{"producty_type":1018,"id":41507,"weight":1,"url":"http://z.qyer.com/deal/41507/","title":"u5e7fu5dde/u9999u6e2fu5f80u8fd4u675cu9a6cu76d6u57305-6u5929u81eau7531u884c","price":"<em>3999</em>u5143u8d77","picture":"http://pic.qyer.com/public/supplier/lastminute/2015/05/11/14313325128281"}]">飞机</span>上等待了一个小时才让下机。迎接我的是一场大雨,CEBU航空的雨伞不够分,提了行李淋着雨跑进航站楼内,好在路程不长,好在订<span class="bbsLmLabel" data-info="[{"producty_type":1018,"id":41507,"weight":1,"url":"http://z.qyer.com/deal/41507/","title":"u5e7fu5dde/u9999u6e2fu5f80u8fd4u675cu9a6cu76d6u57305-6u5929u81eau7531u884c","price":"<em>3999</em>u5143u8d77","picture":"http://pic.qyer.com/public/supplier/lastminute/2015/05/11/14313325128281"}]">机票</span>时给自己预留了三个小时用来应付各种突发状况,不至于赶不上下一班飞机。<br/>
我还有两个小时的转机时间。拿着整理出来的攻略,网友说马尼拉入境处的办事人员效率奇慢,需要准备1.5-2小时入境时间,下机后第一时间跑去入境处排队,空无一人,甚至不需要排队。入境处的大妈只问我一个问题:来菲律宾做什么?我答Holiday。短短几分钟时间顺利办完入境手续,下一楼出海关,走无申报通道,左转再左转便能看见手扶电梯上楼,一切看起来那么顺利。这个航站楼的位置是T3,三楼是CEBU航空的柜台,可以办理转机CHECK IN,四楼便是传说中YELLOW CAB所在的地方。四楼有些简餐,也有MINI SHOP便利店,在这里解决了早餐,购买电话卡,以及顺便换了些小额零钱。买了一份菲律宾早餐,米饭难以下咽。<br/>
上楼之前我在走廊过道碰见一个在算帐的工作人员,向她打听了SHUTTLE BUS的情况,我实在听不懂她带有她带有浓浓菲律宾口音的英语,而她很努力地想要和我说明白,索性拿出笔纸来示意她写。<br/>
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我要<span class="bbsLmLabel" data-info="[{"producty_type":1018,"id":41507,"weight":1,"url":"http://z.qyer.com/deal/41507/","title":"u5e7fu5dde/u9999u6e2fu5f80u8fd4u675cu9a6cu76d6u57305-6u5929u81eau7531u884c","price":"<em>3999</em>u5143u8d77","picture":"http://pic.qyer.com/public/supplier/lastminute/2015/05/11/14313325128281"}]">转机</span>的是ZEST航空,位于T4航站楼,而我抵达马尼拉的航站楼是T3,马尼拉<span class="bbsLmLabel" data-info="[{"producty_type":1018,"id":41507,"weight":1,"url":"http://z.qyer.com/deal/41507/","title":"u5e7fu5dde/u9999u6e2fu5f80u8fd4u675cu9a6cu76d6u57305-6u5929u81eau7531u884c","price":"<em>3999</em>u5143u8d77","picture":"http://pic.qyer.com/public/supplier/lastminute/2015/05/11/14313325128281"}]">机场</span>各个航站楼之间有SHUTTLE BUS往返,在EXIT 4出口处搭乘。算帐的姑娘告诉我第一班在5:30,而一楼INFORMATION处的工作人员则告诉我第一班在6:00,30-60分钟一班,似乎不固定,资费是20P,需要自备零钱。INFORMATION工作人员在得知我的航班时间后,建议我打车到T4,大约15分钟,资费在80-100P,出了机场往右走,寻找黄色车身的出租车,在这里偶遇一英国帅哥及其女朋友,得知他们也是去T4,一起SHARE TAXI。黄色的出租车会有工作人员按顺序帮你开单子,记车牌,看似比较正规,而且统一采取打表,不会乱计费。从T3到T4航站楼,打表资费115P。<br/>
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T4航站楼,像极了中国乡下的中巴车站,几排塑料坐椅,几间小店铺,卖着一些咖啡及三明治简餐,很简陋,好在有免费WIFI和免费充电处可以打发时间。没有摆渡车,也不需要走过长长的走廊,隔着玻璃门,开了门便可登机。<br/>
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我要从马尼拉飞卡利博,我的目的地是Boracay长滩岛。长滩岛有二个<span class="bbsLmLabel" data-info="[{"producty_type":1018,"id":41813,"weight":1,"url":"http://z.qyer.com/deal/41813/","title":"u4e0au6d77u76f4u98deu957fu6ee9u5c9b6u59294u665au81eau7531u884c(u5165u4f4fu4e94u661fu9152u5e97)","price":"<em>4599</em>u5143u8d77","picture":"http://pic.qyer.com/lastminute/library/2015/04/20/5534c68c46c09.jpg"},{"producty_type":1018,"id":41507,"weight":1,"url":"http://z.qyer.com/deal/41507/","title":"u5e7fu5dde/u9999u6e2fu5f80u8fd4u675cu9a6cu76d6u57305-6u5929u81eau7531u884c","price":"<em>3999</em>u5143u8d77","picture":"http://pic.qyer.com/public/supplier/lastminute/2015/05/11/14313325128281"}]">机场</span>,一个叫Caticlan卡迪克兰,一个叫Kalibo卡利博。从马尼拉<span class="bbsLmLabel" data-info="[{"producty_type":1018,"id":41813,"weight":1,"url":"http://z.qyer.com/deal/41813/","title":"u4e0au6d77u76f4u98deu957fu6ee9u5c9b6u59294u665au81eau7531u884c(u5165u4f4fu4e94u661fu9152u5e97)","price":"<em>4599</em>u5143u8d77","picture":"http://pic.qyer.com/lastminute/library/2015/04/20/5534c68c46c09.jpg"},{"producty_type":1018,"id":41507,"weight":1,"url":"http://z.qyer.com/deal/41507/","title":"u5e7fu5dde/u9999u6e2fu5f80u8fd4u675cu9a6cu76d6u57305-6u5929u81eau7531u884c","price":"<em>3999</em>u5143u8d77","picture":"http://pic.qyer.com/public/supplier/lastminute/2015/05/11/14313325128281"}]">直飞</span>Caticlan,下了<span class="bbsLmLabel" data-info="[{"producty_type":1018,"id":41813,"weight":1,"url":"http://z.qyer.com/deal/41813/","title":"u4e0au6d77u76f4u98deu957fu6ee9u5c9b6u59294u665au81eau7531u884c(u5165u4f4fu4e94u661fu9152u5e97)","price":"<em>4599</em>u5143u8d77","picture":"http://pic.qyer.com/lastminute/library/2015/04/20/5534c68c46c09.jpg"},{"producty_type":1018,"id":41507,"weight":1,"url":"http://z.qyer.com/deal/41507/","title":"u5e7fu5dde/u9999u6e2fu5f80u8fd4u675cu9a6cu76d6u57305-6u5929u81eau7531u884c","price":"<em>3999</em>u5143u8d77","picture":"http://pic.qyer.com/public/supplier/lastminute/2015/05/11/14313325128281"}]">飞机</span>步行10分钟便是码头,搭乘螃蟹船10分钟便能抵达长滩岛。好处是省时间省事,坏处是<span class="bbsLmLabel" data-info="[{"producty_type":1018,"id":41813,"weight":1,"url":"http://z.qyer.com/deal/41813/","title":"u4e0au6d77u76f4u98deu957fu6ee9u5c9b6u59294u665au81eau7531u884c(u5165u4f4fu4e94u661fu9152u5e97)","price":"<em>4599</em>u5143u8d77","picture":"http://pic.qyer.com/lastminute/library/2015/04/20/5534c68c46c09.jpg"},{"producty_type":1018,"id":41507,"weight":1,"url":"http://z.qyer.com/deal/41507/","title":"u5e7fu5dde/u9999u6e2fu5f80u8fd4u675cu9a6cu76d6u57305-6u5929u81eau7531u884c","price":"<em>3999</em>u5143u8d77","picture":"http://pic.qyer.com/public/supplier/lastminute/2015/05/11/14313325128281"}]">航班</span>少<span class="bbsLmLabel" data-info="[{"producty_type":1018,"id":41813,"weight":1,"url":"http://z.qyer.com/deal/41813/","title":"u4e0au6d77u76f4u98deu957fu6ee9u5c9b6u59294u665au81eau7531u884c(u5165u4f4fu4e94u661fu9152u5e97)","price":"<em>4599</em>u5143u8d77","picture":"http://pic.qyer.com/lastminute/library/2015/04/20/5534c68c46c09.jpg"},{"producty_type":1018,"id":41507,"weight":1,"url":"http://z.qyer.com/deal/41507/","title":"u5e7fu5dde/u9999u6e2fu5f80u8fd4u675cu9a6cu76d6u57305-6u5929u81eau7531u884c","price":"<em>3999</em>u5143u8d77","picture":"http://pic.qyer.com/public/supplier/lastminute/2015/05/11/14313325128281"}]">机票</span>贵选择少,飞机是螺旋浆小飞机;我选择从马尼拉飞卡利博,因为ZEST航空有促销,机票含税才150RMB,而我也有足够的时间。自然好处是机票便宜<span class="bbsLmLabel" data-info="[{"producty_type":1018,"id":41507,"weight":1,"url":"http://z.qyer.com/deal/41507/","title":"u5e7fu5dde/u9999u6e2fu5f80u8fd4u675cu9a6cu76d6u57305-6u5929u81eau7531u884c","price":"<em>3999</em>u5143u8d77","picture":"http://pic.qyer.com/public/supplier/lastminute/2015/05/11/14313325128281"}]">航空公司</span>多选择广,飞机都是大飞机,相对安全,且第一次去长滩岛,沿途风光也不错。坏处是,从卡利博国际机场到长滩岛,车+船还需要2个小时。<br/>
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ZEST航空很守时,A320大飞机,比CEBU航空舒服很多,7:45准时起飞。之前有网友说ZEST常常无端取消航班,想来我人品极好,此行将CEBU、ZEST、AIRASIA、TIGER各家廉价航空公司的机票都订了个遍,出行前天天查Email生怕传来航班变动或取消的消息,最终都是顺利成行,无延误无取消。<br/>
飞机在一个小时后降落在卡利博国际<span class="bbsLmLabel" data-info="[{"producty_type":1018,"id":41507,"weight":1,"url":"http://z.qyer.com/deal/41507/","title":"u5e7fu5dde/u9999u6e2fu5f80u8fd4u675cu9a6cu76d6u57305-6u5929u81eau7531u884c","price":"<em>3999</em>u5143u8d77","picture":"http://pic.qyer.com/public/supplier/lastminute/2015/05/11/14313325128281"}]">机场</span>,虽是国际机场,一贯类似国内乡下中巴车站,比马尼拉机场小很多,下机出二个玻璃门便是汽车站。遇见一个上海弟弟,一起在机场凑了8个人,和Southwest工作人员谈好价格,250P车船联票价去长滩岛,工作人员要收取196P的税,因为我事先做的功课,知道税是175P,于是我建议只答应她支付购买车船的资费,税自己另买。<br/>
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说一下从卡利博去往长滩岛,下机出来有好几家汽车公司,摆了一张桌子算是售票台,选择还蛮多,有200P/人的小车,大概坐十来个人,要满员才会发车;推荐选择Southwest公司,价格是300P,含车票+船票,不含上长滩岛所需要支付的环境税75P+码头税100P,人多可谈价格,大巴车,车身宽敞,时间上有保障,车+船全程约2小时即可抵达长滩岛。<br/>
我订的住宿叫ORCHIDS,位于S3,应该是离码头最近的地方,拼了Tricycle过去,一车大概有十个人,刚上岛不知道价格怎么计算,付了70P,总之低于100P的价格我都能接受。小菲把我带到一条小路上,指着前面让我往前走就是。结果拐了大概有七八个弯,问了N个人后终于找到,歪歪扭扭的小路破烂不堪,时不时出现一个水坑,我开始后悔拖行李箱过来;抵达ORCHIDS后,倒是另有一番天地,ORCHIDS有一个院子,种了兰花棕榈树和各种植物,一番郁郁葱葱的景象,四周都是竹制的小木屋,倒是颇有几分热带气息。步行2分钟便能到达海滩。这个岛上有二条平行的马路,一条是MAIN ROAD即主路,Tricycle和Multicab等岛上的主要交通工具在这条道上通行,另一条是沿海马路,聚集了餐厅、酒店和商铺,只能步行。原来小菲从MAIN ROAD带我过来,只能送我到那个位置,所以才会那么远。<br/>
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旅馆工作人员送来一串贝壳串起来的项链,并询问我要咖啡还是茶,还叮嘱我It's free。一番梳洗,换上融入当地特地的裙子,出门逛街。无意间来到D'Talipapa,随意走近一家摊位,花200P买了2只螃蟹4只虾,回旅馆付了100P让工作人员加工,当地的料将色香味俱全发挥到了淋漓尽致,十分美味,舟车劳顿的疲倦感得到缓解。在我问他们要筷子的同时,发现一个事实,当地人吃饭不用筷子,只有勺子和叉子,又有别于西方人使用叉子和刀子,但却又是用西方的大盘子装东方的米饭。我把这归结为也许是受西班牙人殖民数百年之久,留下的后遗症。<br/>
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唯一一张天气好的照片,光影婆娑。后来的几天里,风雨交加,很后悔这一天没有出海看帆船日落。<br/>
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通往D'Talipapa海鲜市场的路。其实很好找,在NIGINIGI旅馆的旁边一条马路。<br/>
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